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| Andrew L. Urban

Golden harvest in Villány

Andrew L. Urban
September 26, 2015

With this year’s harvest, Villány is on the eve of a new marketing campaign, with cabarnet franc leading the way. In a drive to raise the profile of the region, premium Villanyi Franc will be the signature of the region’s already acclaimed reds. Indeed, in time, the words Villanyi Franc may become as globally recognised as the words Tokaji Aszu.

In this southern corner of Hungary 2.5 hours on the M6 from Budapest but so far little known by the rest of the world (outside wine shows), The Villány-Siklós Wine Road connects some 2,700 hectares of vineyards with 58 varieties of red and 18 white grapes, producing some extraordinary wines that are acclaimed by international wine judges and a growing number of the public. Its leading variety, cabarnet franc,which accounts for 14% of the total, makes for consistently quality wines, thanks to the right location and topography, good soil, ideal climate – and caring hands.

On a scorching summer Sunday, the row of charming cellar doors on Baross Gábor street are either closed or virtually empty. The Fritsch Cellar is open, winemaker Sándor Horváth alone in the small but attractive tasting room, hunched over his laptop. He is always open, as his business card says.

Fritsch sell all their wines from here, and only from here. Horváth (who married into the Fritsch family) makes five reds and two whites, the former from grapes the family grows themselves, the latter from grapes Horváth sources from others. Stairs lead down to the candle lit cellar, also small but full of atmosphere. (Fritsch may be a small winery, but it has won its share of awards, notably its 1999 and 2000 reds.)

The street is empty because summer is not the high season here for cellar door trade, even though the annual Devil’s Chasm (Ördögkatlan) Festival, a mix of arts, crafts, music and wine, (August 4-8, in 2015) runs at 20 locations in five of the villages in the region. Spring is busy, as is Fall.

While those cellar doors are convenient by their proximity, they do not tell the whole story: the largest and most prominent producers have larger and more prominent establishments elsewhere, not all within walking distance of the Villány village center like these.

The area has developed considerably in recent years, now boasting 51 cellars and 40 places offering accommodation in the Villány region. It is a charming collection of villages and vineyards, many run by families, with visitor information disseminated by the Villány-Siklós Wine Route Association (+36 72 492 242)

The Hungarian Crocus is a plant unique to the region, which can only be found on the south slope of Szársomlyó Hill. It is the first flower to welcome the spring and the first flower to bloom. It is the symbol and logo of the region. It has been appropriated as the logo for the region’s world class resort in the middle of Villány, the Crocus Gere Wine Hotel & Spa, a 38 room luxury accommodation with a 13.5 meter swimming pool, sophisticated wellness centre complete with massage menu, Finnish sauna etc, gourmet restaurant – and wine tasting bar. Perhaps its biggest challenge, says manager Zoltán Pauli, is to keep the chefs, who are constantly being poached by foreign establishments. A rather annoying compliment …

Sampling the menu, it’s easy to see why the chefs attract attention, if my experience is any guide. For just one example, the brothy cream of fennel soup with delicate squid pieces and local mushrooms is worthy of the gourmet label, light in body, complex in flavor.

The place has a relaxed and comfortably stylish vibe. The glass domed indoor pool opens through French doors to the grassy sundeck, the rooms are spacious and the service smooth.

There are several other accommodation options and if the new marketing campaign begins to bite, more will be needed. Wines will never be in short supply.

Approved

Villányi Franc has Ministerial approval as the official appellation, and will be displayed with its logo on bottles of premium and super premium cabarnet franc wines from the region (about 20 winemakers) with the descriptor: "Villányi Franc is the embodiment of elegance and harmony." along with the QR-code of the website: http://villanyiborvidek.hu/en/villany-wine-region/red-wines/villanyi-franc

On November 20 & 21, 2015, the Wine Road Association will host professional winemakers from the Loire as well as locals plus journalists, for a cabarnet franc conference in Siklós castle. The second day will be devoted to wine tastings for the public, featuring cabarnet franc wines from the Loire as well as Villány-Siklós.

SNAPSHOTS OF SOME VILLÁNY WINERIES


JÓZSEF BOCK

The Bock family traces its wine history back to its original press house in 1850. József Bock’s father had to buy it back in 1958, after it had been nationalised in 1946. After being on the periphery of wine making, Bock planted their first vines on half a hectare he purchased in 1979. Bock’s own children play a significant role in the business and he has expanded into hospitality and restaurants.

First bottled: 1987

Best vintages: 88-89, 91, 93, 97, 2003, 2007, 2009, 2012

2014 – 15 how successful

Very good, we were spared the hail that devastated other areas.


Major business milestone/s & most important award

Winemaker of the Year, 1997

Challenge International 2007 – Gold medal

Best selling wine: Bock Ermitage (Portugieser)

Finest premium wine: Bock Cuvee Barrique

% of international sales: 15% of 700,00 – 800,000 bottles


Business philosophy / mantra:

In Villány great emphasis must be placed on wine tourism, aim for quality both with wines and in catering.


Point of difference with other Villány wines/winemakers:

Special attention to grape maturity profile and flavor

CSABA MALATINSZKY

Obsessive about every detail since he started in 1997, former successful Budapest sommelier Csaba Malatinszky only grows wine, not his vineyards: he wants to stick to his 30 hectares (in Villany and Siklós) so he can do it all on his own. You could call him Mr. Cabarnet Franc and nobody would argue.

First vintage:1997

Best vintages: 2000, 2003, 2006, 2007,2008, 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013

2014 – 15 how successful:

2014 vintage was a complicated year, high humidity, low temperature, it was a challenge concerning  pest control. The wines are fresh, fruity and elegant, their strengths may not be found in concentration.


Major business milestone/s & most important awards:

Milestones:

- first wine shop in Hungary

- first modern winery in Villány

- one of the first organic wineries in Hungary

- invitation from Decanter to top 100 wineries of the world in 2009 and 2010

- from 2005, every year Wine Report has chosen us among the greatest wine producers, among top 10 wineries of Middle -Southeast Europe and among top 10 wines

Key awards:

Kúria Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Concours Mondial Bruxelles Medaille d'Or/Gold Medal

Noblesse Merlot 2002 Concours Mondial Bruxelles Medaille d'Or/Gold Medal

Cabernoir 2002 Challenge International du vin Medaille d'Or/Gold Medal

Cabernet Franc 2008 Decanter World Wine Awards Gold Medal/Best cabernet franc in the world 2013

Noblesse Serena 2009 Decanter Best Old World White 2010

Best selling wine today:  Noblesse Cabernet Franc

% of international sales: 60%


Business philosophy / mantra:

To further develop the market for premium gastronomy and private customers


Point of difference with other Villány wines/winemakers:

I make the wine myself and I manage the winery myself

ATTILA GERE

The Gere family boasts that their winery stretches back seven generations, the wine history only interrupted in the postwar period. A modest bed and breakfast was opened in 1991, the first tourist accommodation in Villany and in 2008 the Crocus Gere Wine Hotel, including the Mandula Restaurant and Wine Bar (and a wellness centre) was opened. Gere has 70 hectares under vine today.

First vintage 1980 (first harvest) 1986 (first bottled)

Best vintage: fullbodied: 2000, 2003, 2007, 2012: more elegant style 2002, 2006, 2011

2014 – 15 how successful: 2014 was not an outstanding one, rather a vintage for the fruity, lighter style wines. 2015 seems to be a very nice vintage so far.


Major business milestone/s & most important awards:

1994: Attila Gere received the Winemaker of the Year award

1995: Attila Gere becomes member of the Hungarian Wine Academy

2011: Attila Gere Endowed “Knight’s Cross Order of Merit of the Republic of Hungary”

2002: The new Gere Winery building opened its doors, with modern technology

2003: Elected to the President of the Hungarian Wine Guild

2008: The Gere Guesthouse rebuilt and expanded to 4 star Hotel, the Crocus Gere Wine Hotel. A fine dinning restaurant and a wellness is also established in the hotel.

2010: The Gere Winery started to grow grapes organically on the entire 70 hectare vinyard.

2015: The Crocus Gere Wine Hotel expanded with 13 new premium rooms.

Best selling wine today, Kopar is the flagship wine of the winery and also the  best known wine, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

% of international sales: 5% of about 500,000 bottles per year


Business philosophy/mantra:

To produce more and more attractive wines utilizing all of nature's advantages; the best of the grape without exploiting it. The base of all excellent wines has always been healthy grapes combined with hard, consistent work and deep commitment to winemaking.


Point of difference with other Villány wines/winemakers:

Gere wines are elegant, refined, complex, fruit driven with an elegant use of oak barrels, delivering long lasting aftertaste.

CHRISTIAN SAUSKA

First vintage  2006

Best vintage 2009, 2011

2014 – 15 how successful:

2014 has been a truly challenging year with several cold fronts, lots of rain and serious infections, rapid daily decisions marked the road to the harvest. A year like this really proves the skills of the winemakers and the efficiency of the team.

2015 looks fantastic so far but anything can happen until the first minute of the harvest. Every single year requires different vineyard work and winemaking skills though the focus  points - quality, character, variety- always the same.


Major business milestone/s & most important awards

2014: Decanter World Wine Awards International Trophy for Cuvee 5 Villány 2009

2105: Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Trophy for Cabernet Franc Villány ???2011

2015: International Wine Challenge Gold medal for Cuvee 113 Tokaj 2013

Best selling wine today:

Villány Rose but our unoaked Tokaj Furmint is a strong second of which we are truly proud. We don`t mind at all when people make spritzers with them.

% of international sales: 20


Business philosophy / mantra:

Our wines truly reflects our personal taste. This is what family winery means, making wines we are happy to see on our dinner table.


Point of difference with other Villány wines/winemakers:

No difference. I spent a decade with frequent visits to Villány vintners and I am glad that their hard work paid off. There is no Villány without Bock, Gere or Tiffán, their legacy is profoundly important for the region. I am proud to call József Bock my friend, nothing is better than  sitting with him sipping his wine discussing life, football, politics. Not even wine.

Andrew L. Urban

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